Return to Kathmandu

We've made it back to Kathmandu after what has been a very full on trip (possibly a little too full on). Reflecting on the last 4 weeks they have been very busy:

While still jet lagged in Kathmandu we toured the main temples, taking in the monkeys, butter candles, incense, gongs, chants, prayer wheels, Hindu gods and cremation ghats. In our hotel district of Thamel everyone got used to noisy, crowded streets, no footpaths and and dodging cars, motorbikes and rickshaws.

The next day we headed to Jiri and Shivralia by bus with a driver who thought he was in a stock car. Overheated brakes, brinkmanship passing and roads that would test most 4wds made for an exhausting day.

The eight days treking to Namche was a delight although it did involve a lot of up and down – as much as 1600m a day. In the valleys we discovered snakes and leaches, on the passes and peaks, magnificent views of the mountains. For me the highlights were: watching naks (Yaks are bulls the cows are naks)being milked and drinking tea made with the milk and salt,, seeing our shadows cast in the ridge top mist in a rare occurrence called brocken-spectres and staying in very small tea houses where we interacted with the family, especially the kids as dinner was cooked in the wood stoves.

From Namche we quickly climbed through the alpine scrub layer to spend the next two weeks in rock, snow and over-grazed, brown yak pasture. While we were heading off as up to three separate groups, everyone was pushed hard by the altitude, effort required, and new cultures. For the scenic group, climbing to Gokyo Ri and and then to Everest Base Camp was a significant achievement. Kalla Patthar (the small hill above Everest Base Camp) provided truly stunning views and despite the crowds we were all able to find a quiet place to appreciate the history and drama of the region.

Quite a few of the group completed the three passes and everyone found aspects of these a stretch. The 1200m climb to Renjo La in a moderate snow storm saw everyone gasping for breath in air that was half as dense as sea level (Although when I caught up with them 20 minutes after the pass they were all looking very good). The Cho La pass on a sunny morning with fresh snow underfoot was spectacular and everyone who did iot had a fantastic day. Kongma La was also crossed on a fine day and I heard nothing but how fantastic and how exhausting it was.

Our attempt on Lobuche East was made on a poor weather day and proved frustrating for some. The initial part of the climb should have been a 1 hour scramble over easy rocks, instead it became an uncomfortable shuffle up slippery snow covered rocks that took 3.5 hours. Colin and our guide Tshering made the false summit in alpine style and poor visibility. The rest of us retreated having had some magnificent, but brief glimpses of the surrounding mountains through gaps in the mist.

For me the evening in Base Camp was worth while. The near full moon illuminating the surrounding peaks at dusk was magic.

The trip culmination was an alpine run in a similar style to the Everest Marathon. It was very much a personal effort and all the group found a way to claim their own first prize. These varied from first finished to first woman's team over two days. Whatever the pace the prize was some stunning scenery and a sense of having giving it our all to descent 2,800m, climb 700m and cover about 40kms of rough, steep trails.

Now back in Kathmandu we are enjoying 3 days to recover. It is remarkable just how much we all need a few days off. Well most of us, Colin chose to run from Lukla to Jiri over two days and arrived last night on the bus.

We are departing for Singapore in a few moments.  

Ross

Kongma La Pass

Kongma La 23 October

Today we were up at the usual time full of expectation (albeit nervous
expectation!!) for a big day over the third pass – 'The Kongma La'.
The team was down to 4, Luke, Colin, Hazel and myself plus our two
lovely Sherpa's Tshering and Nim.

Off we went up over the first hill, with all of us but Luke going up
the steepest part of the hill. Luke went over a ridge which was
kinder and got some lovely photos, overlooking Chhukhung, Island Peak
and numerous glaciers.

A "very big" climb, never seemed to end. Up we went and just as you
thought you were at the top, another higher false summit would appear
in the distance. I thought at one stage that I wasn't going to make it
but then Luke tucked in behind me and with a bit of encouragement I
finally saw the 'true' summit.

Apart from the encouragement from others the other things which
inspired me to continue were the fantastic views on a crystal clear
day, huge glaciers which seemed to meander into eternity, breathtaking
views of clear alpine lakes and water falls which had turned into
icebergs on the way down – amazing.

One of the most special moments of the trip was coming around the
corner of some huge boulders on top of the summit (almost 5 hours
after we left Dingoche) and being cheered on by a large group of
people who were already at the top – awesome!! So obviously the thing
to do was to find a suitable rock (5535 metres up) and do the same to
the others as they made the top.

We stayed at the summit for 3/4's of an hour and just soaked up the
sights – amazying. Took some great photos, ate chapati bread and
peanut butter and just basked in the glory!

Now for the climb down – must be easier I (stupidly) thought!! The
first difference from the climb up was the snow on the Lobuche side so
for about the first 100 metres down we put on our crampons. In the
distance you could see an enormous moraine wall from the "Khumbu
Glacier" which ran between the pass and Labouche – this seemed to grow
in height as we got closer!!

So down we went; once the snow melted we started climbing over huge
boulders, slippery rocks, loose chip – ended up on my bum a couple of
times but just jumped up quickly in the hope that nobody had seen!!

Down to the bottom and the nightmare was realised – we now had to
climb the moraine wall, which by now was about 100 metres high!! Up
we went (not much left in the tank) following Tshering's professional
footsteps and once up the top the view (once again) was breathtaking!!
An enormous glacier to cross – must have been at least 1 kilometre
wide and I wouldn't want to guess how deep – WOW! One could only guess
how many years Mother Nature had spent making such an incredible
thing!

After a very tricky crossing (once again all confidence in Tshering
and Nim though) we got to the other side. Colin had gone ahead and
given his pack to one of the porters and then came back to us and
offered to take my pack for me. Normally I would have refused, but
with very little energy left I graciously accepted!!

Yeah we made it to Labouche – absolutely knackered but with big smiles.

BIG, BRILLIANT, UNFORGETTABLE day – Krissy.

Namche Bazaar 26 October

Yesterday's run from Kalla Patthar to here in Namche was exhilarating and exhausting. We began with a walk up from our “Hotel” to the top of Kalla Patthar (5,545m) in crisp clear conditions and probably about 10 degrees of frost. As we walked up the hill, Everest became more prominent but it was Pumo Ri (or Pomori) that dominated. There were tents glued to the near vertical snow faces as the Ecuadorians retreated, beaten by the weather, and the Canadians advanced, hopeful that in their third season of attempts they would succeed. We had visited their base camps the day before and been warmly received.


The air at 5,500m is about half the atmospheric pressure of sea level and it feels like each lungful needs to be twice as big. We had walked up the 360m from Gorak Shep in about an hour. Running uphill is just not possible. Running down we took it slowly as in a couple of practice runs we had realised how quickly we could end up panting wrecks. Part way down KP we emerged into the sun from the shadow of Nuptse. It was time to change into shorts, shedding several layers.


The Trail quickly drops 1400m and the difference is huge. The barren alpine landscape gives way to Juniper and other conifers and the air thickens. On the down-hills we look like runners as we pass hundreds of trekkers travelling in both direction. We imagine we are skipping lightly down the boulder strewn trails but in reality we probably appear to be stumbling down. On the up-hills we look more like typical trekkers, out of breath and walking steadily. Over the course of a bit under 6 hours we descend 2800m and climb back over 700m in a bit under 40kms to arrive in Namche in time for lunch. Hazel and I are completely knackered.


Colin Rolfe decided to run from New Everest Base Camp and completed somewhat more than a regulation marathon distance in in 5 hours. A very strong effort and he had considerably more energy than us last night.



Today we are sitting in a coffee shop and bakery in Namche drinking in the incredible mountain views and sipping strong coffee as I write. We seem to have packed a huge amount into the last three weeks and there is still a week to go.

A sobering note was introduced two days ago when our climbing guides cousin was killed in an avalanche. He was the lead climber and a very popular member of staff at Sherpa Shangrila. All our guides are upset and Tshering is visiting his cousins family today. It is a further reminder of the responsibilities we have as visitors to set reasonable goals and take part of the risk management responsibility.

Ross 26 October

Dhole 15 October (This blog is out of sequence - it refers to an
earlier part of the trip

As part of the easy group we are wending our way slowly up the Dudh
Koshi valley towards Gokyo. Our days are limited by the amount of
height we can safely gain each day (300-400m) so the walking times are
quite short. We share the trail with porters carrying up to 120kgs.
Today we were in a group carrying plywood and other building
materials. Four 20mm sheets or about 15 thin sheets was standard.
Others were carrying kerosine, beer and cheese. At 4000m we are now
above the height where crops can be grown and everything has to be
carried in. As well as porters there are yak trains. Lower down we
passed mule trains, then Zum (cow/yak cross) trains, but now we have
to get off the track for big shaggy yaks. A few days back on the
track a porter was found concussed down a bank after being pushed off
by a mule. With some big drops at the side of the track we stop on
the inside and let the animals pass at their own pace.

Hopefully there will be some pictures with this to show just how
magnificent it is. Even though we are at 4000m the nearby peaks tower
over us by another 3000m. Here in Dhole we are almost at the bush
line. We are still walking through Juniper and Rhododendron stands,
but other deciduous trees are common and these are in full autumn
colours.

Keith went off for a stroll yesterday afternoon and came across a deer
and a musk deer just on dusk. Choughs (crows) are common and of
course yaks abound. Its very different from the lower trails where
Colin surprised a snake and several of the group had leaches find
them. One dropped down Jean's front and she proudly displayed it to
all as a an unexpected birthday present.

In the mornings when the sun is out it's warm enough to tramp in
shorts and light top. But when the clouds arrive (currently by
midday) we end up in down jackets and hats inside the tea houses.
There is some heating in the lodges, but as fuel is scarce they
generally don't light the fire till dusk. There was a solid frost on
the roof last night but our sleeping bags are more than up to the task
at present.

Will sign off now as battery life is short. Not sure how or when this
will get sent.

Ross

Labuche Climb blog

The weather here has been unseasonably bad with lots of snow and
cloud. Despite this we had an amazing evening at Lobuche base camp
(5,300m) when the cloud cleared just on dusk to reveal an amazing
vista.  It was a view that was well worth the climb and the cold
night.

 During the night we were woken several times with hard snow hitting
the tent.  At 4am it was misty and snowing but we prepared to climb
and ate breakfast in anticipation.  At 6:20 it cleared and we started
off, but the snow covered rocks were slippery and progress was very
slow and slightly uncomfortable.  The cloud came and went revealing
tremendous glimpses of the peaks and we made the glacier about 10am.
Steep and prone to avalanches, the snow climb required good visibility
and the weather was changing for the worse. Our collective pace was
also too slow to reach the top and return to base.  Colin was very
keen to go on and Tshering our guide was willing, so they went on and
made a very fast free ascent and descent without belays while the rest
of us descended slowly, abseiling the steepest rocky bit.

We packed up base camp very quickly in heavy snow fall and raced down
to join the main EBC track.  From there it was another few hours back
to Dingboche,

 This morning has dawned fine and clear for only the second time in
what seems like weeks.

The Locals
The locals have been great and we have seen many wizened faces. Sir
Ed almost counts as a local around here and his statue in Kumjung is
in pride of place in the first school he founded in the district.

Cho La

Cho La - Tuesday Oct 19
Getting to the top of Cho La pass at 8am on a beautiful sunny morning
with amazing views has been one of the highlights of the trip. Frozen
toes and a 4am start were soon forgotten as we took in the amazing
views and sucked in some air - there is rather less at 5360m that at
sea level. We all found Cho La much easier than Renjo La 2 days
before so the extra days at altitude and slower pace were definitely
beneficial.
1000 photos later we scrambled down a small rock face that spooked the
porters with their huge loads and headed across the glacier. The snow
and surrounding peaks were just stunning and the experience was topped
off by seeing fresh snow leopard prints criss-crossing the snow around
us.
100m below the top I decided it was time for a few handstands before
we headed down for lunch.
The group split after lunch with the climbers heading up to Lobuche
and the rest of us down to Dingboche where we collapsed in a heap and
had a very quiet night. The scenic group joined us the next morning
for a very chilled out day in Dingboche.
Hazel

Haircut

7 days into our trek Colin decided it was time for a haircut. Keith
and Colin had been drinking the local rakshi and keith decided this
would be a good fundraiser for the porters to have an evening out so
everyone pitched in 50 Rupee (NZ$1) for a chance to have a snip.
After much debate about appropriate style the group settles on a hot
cross bun mohawk. Krissy took the first snip and then it was all on.
With many directors hair was soon flying and an audience was building.
Our guides and Gill were deemed the best hairdressers and were given
the task of making the short bits look less patchy. The final look
was quite something and Colin was less than keen to take his hat off
for the next couple of days.
The porters headed out as soon as the cut was finished and we are told
thay had a good meal.

Hazel

Update from Gokyo

We are just about to depart Gokyo and discovered an internet Facility.
 So a quick update for the blog.

The fast group made it over Renjo La in snow and mist yesterday to
meet the scenic group here in Gokyo (4,800m).   This morning most of
group climbed Gokyo Ri (5,360m).  There was snow on the ground here in
the village but it melted quickly.  Acclimatisation is going well but
we all end up panting after walking up one floor of stairs to the
dinning room.

Weather is mixed and we are catching only glimpses of the fantastic views.
Should be several good blogs from Dingboche in three days time.

9 of us are heading over the Cho la tomorrow if the wether permits.
The remainder have set off back down the valley, from where they will
slowly head up towards Everest base camp.

Namche Baazar

We arrived today in Namche and its a breathtaking place.  Mountains tower above us and we are all a bit stunned at just how majestic it is.  Having taken 8 days to get here we have more breath than those who flew into Lukla, but there are still moments when an extra breath or two is required.

Two days ago we arrived in Surke, which was the last stop before we caught up with the Lukla fly in crowd.  That day we had walked on steep muddy trails and several people slipped in the yak and mule dung of the numerous pack trains.  Despite that the rhododendron and pine forests were spectacular in the mist and every now and again we would catch glimpse of the deep gorge we were sidling.  

We arrived in Surke with time to spare so most people took the chance to climb 600m to Lukla, where we experienced a bit of culture shock.  The airport had been closed for 3 days and the town was seething with tourists getting increasingly anxious.  A few helicopters could sneak in under the clouds and seats were available for $US550.  We watched a helicopter attempt to lift off, fail, throw out a bag then gain a metre.  At that point it hovered from the short flat pad at the top of the runway to the main steeply sloping part where it used gravity to gain speed and lift.   

We bought lattes and pastries from the German Bakery at NZ prices before running back down the hill.

The airport opened yesterday, but we stayed ahead of the incoming trekkers.  The number of departing trekkers was huge and the trail was like Lambton Quay, except there were a lot more shattered and tired people.  Our hotels now have sit down loos and western menus.  It almost seems a pity as we had greatly enjoyed the small tea houses where we dined in the kitchen and played with the children.

Today coming up the 600m to Namche was spectacular and I felt high on the views and atmosphere.  Possibly this was because we were slightly hypoxic, but I like to think it was the magic of these mountains.

Tomorrow the group splits with most heading for Renjo La.  The remainder are going to Gokyo via the lower route. 

Ross

October 6

Tuesday 5 - Kathmandu - Shivalaya
Our wake up call this morning was at 4:45 so with bleary eyes we headed down for the world famous omelets for breakfast, at 5:00am.  We squeezed our gear into large canvas bags which would be carried by the porters, and the remainder of our gear was packed into our day packs.
Onto the bus at 6:00am, 14 of us plus our lead guide and several sherpas.  The bus headed off through the chaos of Kathmandu City, heading for the hills.  The trip through the city was an experience of it's own, our driver obviously didn't want anybody else in Nepal passing him.  Very few road rules (apart from the driver of the motor bike wearing the helmet!!), pretty much whoever gets their nose in front first has the right of way or the one who has the loudest horn - great fun!!
We headed off over numerous saddles, passes and valleys getting up to a height of 2600 metres - fantastic views and some really hairy moments, involving other trucks, goats, cows, motorbikes, people and some very skinny unsealed roads. Our driver deserves a medal, nothing phased him - and I'm pretty sure nothing passed us over the 200km ride.
We got into Jiri at 2:30pm and decided to carry on in the bus towards Shivalaya (instead of walking it) as it was 'driveable'.  Well that was a matter of opinion, it was like a roller coaster ride.  The road was unsealed and in most parts could be likened to a 'goat track' - but once again sensational driving and some fairly hairy moments.  At one point we met another truck on a corner and it was a stale mate....until our driver won and the other truck had to reverse.
Great fun, great experience and some very memorable moments - and a sore bum!!
Got into Shivalaya (picking up more porters alone the way) just before 4:00pm, dusty, tired but with lots of smiles.
Staying in a great clean 'tea house' house tonight and even managed to get a great hot shower.
Looking forward to our first trek tomorrow.
That's all for 5th October.
Krissy Eckhold.

Wednesday 06 October
The alarms have been set for 5,45, except the one set at 4,45 that had not been changed from the day before. For those that didn't use earplugs the local dogs provided an alternative wake-up, albeit some what early.
This is really day one of the trek, as the real walking started at 7.00am with varied starting times to tackle the 900 metre climb starting immediately behind the Shivalaya village. The goal was Deurali village at 2705 metres. Four hardy soul felt that they needed a further stretch up the ridge to get cheese for starters at dinner that night. The rest descended 500 metres to Bhandar to wait for the rest to arrive for lunch.
Amazingly the chef anticipated our staggered approach and took over an hour to deliver the food after ordering the starters. The fare consisted of a choice of tomato soup and chapattis topped with local cheese or fried rice.
After lunch we were advised it would be three and a half hours walks to Kinji at 1630 metres where we would spend the night. What appears to be the beginning of a trend the start was staggered and we followed the porters over a track high above the river with amazing views of the valley and the usual knee-jarring descent. The faster one's finished the journey in about two and a half hours.
Tomorrow it can only be up and the group will split up for two options. Some will stretch out for Pikey (pronounced Pee-Kay ) peak and the rest will follow the traditional route up to Seti and then on to find a resting place. More about that from someone that participated in the excursion.
To dinner and bed and 06 October is now history and memories,
Nigel Hillind

Thursday 07 October

Today there are two groups. Eight intrepid explorers are off to the Pikey Peaks (there are    two). We will get an up-date from them when they rejoin us at Jumbhesi.
The rest of us headed up and up to Sete at 2520 metres for lunch. On the way up we could see the other group slowly working their way on the other side of the valley below us. The guide book described described our ascent as relentless but our group trudged on and made easy work of the track. Keith had paved the way up to Seti but unfortunately did not order lunch and the usual one hour wait ensued. Not to let the time be wasted some of the ladies used the opportunity for hair-washing and foot-bathing (luckily in that order) with some assistance from the only gentleman in the group. The photo's of this humorous entertainment are available for 20 rupees a copy from the author.
After lunch we continued on up the ridge and the deforestation was really noticeable, well at least until the mist came in and cut the visability down to 20 metres. Our stopping point for the night is Goyam at 3200 metres which the mathematicians among you will work that we ascended 1570 metres during the day.
Our resting place is the Tashidelek Lodge & Restaurant. I must stop putting "Restaurant" as they all claim that. The restaurant part was actually the family living quarters with a wood-fired oven with a variety of pots and pans adorning the top and being place over the flames at different times. Strips of buffalo meat hung from above the oven drying and being smoked. Food was slightly different. The potatoes had lashings of local chillies, and the pasta was fresh and made locally. Some-one noted that nearly 1500 metres had pushed the price of beer up by 20 rupees (40 cents) but as we had all vowed abstinence of such substances, it wasn't an issue (Yeah Right!!). I've been told that a porter gets 20 rupees per kilo pr day for carrying all manner of goods on his back.
The communal nature of our eating facilities made the setting for an interesting evening. A neighbouring lodge owner arrived during the expansive degustation (many course) menu that was served ending with individual apple pies. One party member feeling full resisted the temptation, only to have our visitor insist, and aid the digestion by rubbing his back, and patting his knee.... The same visitor also proposed marriage to a female member of our party, and we think even without the considerable amount of rakshi (local white spirit) he had consumed, he was not the full tin of biscuits. This blog was not actually completed on this evening because of the curiosity of the host family including the clingy child of undiscernable age, which ended in Ross showing photos from a Patagonian trip with a leaning towards penguin photos.
While protracted, dinner was over by 7.00pm and plans were hatched for the morning. The male members of the party decided to arise at 4.15 am and pursue the other party somewhere near the Pikey Peaks. One quickly dropped out and it was left to the other two who arose at the said time and departed into the darkness at 5.00am.
The Pikey Peak drop-up (no pun intended) left at 6.00am, bound for Jumbesi, leaving the ladies to a more sedate departure at 7.15am.
Nigel Hillind

Pike Peak

Thursday morning we split into two groups. The first group went straight through to Junbesi, the rest of us went on a side trip up to Pike Peak.
Leaving Junbesi we climbed steeply on unmarked tracks and found a great belt of cattle ticks and leeches, great fun.  After a bit of excitment that came with removing leeches from places a leech should not be we got into the rhythm of the climb and enjoyed some fantastic views.
Started seeing yaks and knew we were getting higher.
Stayed at Pike Peak (PK) at about 3700m and most of us felt the first effects of altitude sickness with headaches and dicky stomaches.  The rain rolled in and we wondered what views we would get in the morning.
Midnight pee breaks were greeted by a fantastic clear night sky with stars shining above andf lights from houses in the towns below glowing in the distance.  There was also a friendly yak attracted to torch light that caught most of us unaware.
We woke at 0430hrs to a cold windy morning.  It looked like the views would be clagged in as we climbed up to Pike Peak (4065m).  Yak calves hinded our accent but provided good amusement.
As we neared the summit of the peak the clouds cleared and we were treated to incredible views of Everest and other peaks.  The cold and wind were worth it and the climb was well worth the effort.
The trip down was geat and we we treated to more fantastic photo opportunities.  Got our first taste of yak milk tea and watchged yaks getting milked, knew it was fresh.  The benefits of sweating was that yak calves were happy to use your legs as a salt lick.
Ross meet the group at a saddle called Jase Bhanjyang and told us of a shortcut that would take an hour off the time down to Junbesi.  Didn't quite work out that way and after a bit of bush bashing and a 2 1/2 hour detour we arrived at Junbesi with tales of fantastic views, intripid adventures and sore tired legs.  Worth every minute.
 Luke

Kathmandu

Kathmandu intruges and fascinates everyone in the group.  After the shiny, clean feel of Singapore and delightful service by young attractive staff aboard Silk Air we walk into the un-airconditioned and scruffy Tribuvan airport where our visa applications are processed slowly and with complete disinterest.

Once outside we are greeted with leis and our gear piled haphazardly on the mini-bus  roof.  I'm bundled into the front seat with some expectation of poviding a commentary, but none is needed, for most people are gawping at the scenes outside.  The traffic seems like chaos; there is no giving way, near misses are everywhere and traffic on our two lane road spreads into 3 lanes one way with a sliver of a route the other.  It's inefficent, noisy and chaotic.  There is as  rubbish everywhere, the air is thick with smog and half the buildings look unfinished.  We take a series of shortcuts down narrow lanes that should be but aren't one-way, to get to our hotel which as always feels like a haven.  

After an early dinner in an Indian restaurant and most of us are asleep by 8pm.  It's been a 31  hour day crossing timezones with very little sleep on the plane.

Breakfast this morning was as 6:15 as we sought to avoid the worst traffic and tour the classic temples.  Our guide provides a few statistics to explain the scenes.  Electricity capacity is less than half needs so  power is off for 5-8 hours a day.  By comparison water is only on 2 hours a day.  Sewage systems and rubbish collection seem more imagined than effective.  Despite this the cost of housing is more than Invercargill.
The temples as always, provide more food for thought.  Richly decorated Buddhist temples with chanting monks are quiet and soothing, while outside beggars with missing fingers and mothers with young children seek alms.  The monkeys look cute wiith their young clinging to their breasts, but we see young novice monks running in fear of other aggressive ones.  The cremation ghats at the Hindu temples are burning, while kids swim in the river scavenging coins and charred firewood from early cremations.  Sadhus look leeringly on and funeral parties go about their mourning.

This afternoon everyone is wandering around Thamel, enjoying the shopping and excellent range of food.  We leave for our trek at 6am tommorow.  Everyone is in good spirits and health.

Preparing for Departure

With less than three weeks to go the trip is feeling very real.  We have a good mix of people on the trip, from those that will feel pleased to have completed the standard walk to Everest Base Camp from near Jiri, to some very good runners who are looking to test there lags and bodies on numerous side trips.